Buyer Handbook Practical knitwear manufacturing notes from Tirupur, India
Practical Knitwear Handbook · Published by Oger Knits

The practical guide to sourcing knitwear without the guesswork.

Written from the knitting mills of Tirupur, India. Learn how to evaluate fabric structures, specify realistic measurement tolerances, review samples, and navigate production timelines with confidence.

A Note from the Factory Floor

Circular knits are fundamentally different from woven cloth. Every roll of single jersey or loopback fleece is made of interlocking yarn loops that react to wash heat and humidity.

Getting your yarn count (e.g. 24s vs 30s compact), fabric weight (GSM), and stenter compacting right upfront prevents 90% of customer fit returns.

Core Chapters

Where are you in your sourcing journey?

Choose a chapter below to jump straight to practical manufacturing recommendations.

Chapter 01 · Preparation

Planning an Order

What to prepare before contacting a factory: realistic order quantities, dyeing lot minimums, size curves, and budgeting.

Read Preparation Guide →
Chapter 02 · Materials

Fabrics & GSM Weights

Single jersey, pique, rib, French terry, and fleece. Understand English yarn counts (Ne), blends, and enzyme bio-washes.

Explore Fabrics →
Chapter 03 · Specifications

Tech Pack Blueprint

Points of measure (POM), seam stretch standards, collar recovery ribs, care labeling laws, and export carton packaging.

View Tech Pack Guide →
Chapter 04 · Timeline

The 8 Production Stages

Follow the critical manufacturing path: Proto fit → Lab dips → PP sample approval → Bulk knitting → Cut/Sew → AQL 2.5.

See Production Flow →
Workshop Tool

Knit Fabric & GSM Recommender

Select your garment silhouette to preview standard fabric structures, yarn counts, and shrinkage expectations.

Choose the item you are planning to produce:

Understanding GSM
GSM stands for Grams per Square Meter. Higher GSM means a denser, heavier fabric. Setting the right GSM upfront keeps your collection consistent season after season.
T-Shirts & Tops

Classic Everyday Crewneck T-Shirt

Recommended Weight 180 – 200 GSM
Fabric Structure 100% Combed Ring-Spun Cotton Single Jersey
Recommended Yarn 26s/1 or 30s/1 Combed Compact
Knitting Gauge 24G or 28G circular knit
Shrinkage Expectation Length: -4% to -5% | Width: -3% to -4%
Neck Rib / Trim Spec 1x1 Spandex Rib (95% Cotton / 5% Elastane), 230–250 GSM for firm neck recovery.
Recommended Finishing Bio-wash (enzyme polish) for smooth anti-pilling surface + tubular compacting for dimensional stability.
Bench Note for Tech Packs
For retail brands, a 28G knit with 30s yarn yields a crisper, tighter handfeel with superior screen printing fidelity compared to cheaper 24s open-end yarn.
Field Resources

In-Depth Reference Modules

Explore interactive tools and practical reference guides created for daily sourcing work.

Tool · Inspection

Interactive Quality Checklist

An audit checklist to review Proto, Fit, and PP samples. Test shrinkage, side-seam spirality, shade under D65 daylight, and measurement tolerances.

Open QA Checklist Tool →
Dictionary · 70+ Terms

Knitwear Sourcing Glossary

Plain-English definitions of textile terms: from GSM, Ne yarn count, and bio-wash to lab dips, strike-offs, AQL 2.5, and GOTS standards.

Search Sourcing Glossary →
Templates · Download

Spec Sheets & Fit Templates

Download practical POM grade rule tables, measurement tolerance guides, and a sample fit comment log sheet for your design studio.

Browse Templates →
About the Resource

Why an Indian manufacturer built an open learning site.

Most sourcing friction happens because of simple vocabulary mismatches between design studios abroad and the technicians operating circular knitting machines in Tirupur.

We built OgerKnits.info as an open educational reference. When buyers know how dyeing batches work, what compacting does, and how to write clear measurement tolerances, samples get approved on round one, and garments ship on time.

100%
Knitwear Focused
Specialized solely in circular knits: t-shirts, polos, hoodies, & sweatwear.
8 Stages
Production Flow
From initial CAD costing to container seal and shipping dispatch.
70+
Glossary Terms
Searchable definitions for GSM, Ne count, SPI, flatlock, & AQL.
Tirupur
Knitting Cluster
Practical insights straight from India's knitwear export capital.
Direct from the Manufacturer · Tirupur, India

Have a collection or custom tech pack ready to review?

When you're ready to request sampling, discuss yarn options, or cost out your production run, connect directly with our engineering and merchandising team at Oger Knits.

Tirupur Mill Desk