Knit Fabric & Weight Guide
Plain-language explanations of circular knit constructions, English yarn counts (Ne), GSM weights, fiber blends, and commercial fabric finishes.
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Understanding the 6 Core Knit Structures
Unlike woven fabrics (like denim or poplin) which consist of crisscrossed warp and weft yarns, circular knit fabrics are formed by interlocking loops of yarn. The mechanical arrangement of these loops gives each knit its distinct drape, elasticity, texture, and weight.
1. Single Jersey
Standard TeeFeatures distinct vertical "V" loops on the face and horizontal purl half-moons on the back. Natural horizontal stretch. Cut edges naturally curl toward the face if unhemmed.
2. Pique (Honeycomb)
PolosKnitted with tuck stitches that create a geometric diamond or honeycomb waffle relief. Highly breathable, stiff enough to hold a tailored collar, and hides perspiration well.
3. Interlock
Double KnitA double-knit fabric made with two sets of needles. The face and reverse look identical with smooth knit stitches on both sides. Heavier, ultra-smooth, squat-proof, and will not curl at cut edges.
4. Rib Knit (1x1 & 2x2)
Trim & CollarAlternating columns of knit and purl stitches create vertical ridges. Exceptional crosswise elasticity and recovery without necessarily needing spandex.
5. French Terry (Loopback)
3-Thread KnitFeatures a flat jersey face for smooth printing and unbrushed soft yarn loops on the interior. Highly absorbent, breathable, and suitable for four-season temperate climates.
6. Brushed Fleece
Thermal WarmthThe inner loops of French Terry are mechanically sheared and napped with wire brushes, creating a plush, fuzzy, thermal insulating fleece backing.
The Knit Fabric GSM & Application Matrix
GSM stands for Grams per Square Meter (or oz/yd² in US metrics). It is the universal standard for specifying fabric thickness and mass. Here is the industry benchmark table:
| Category | GSM Range | Typical Knit | Recommended Garments | Handfeel & Characteristics |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lightweight | 130 – 160 GSM | Single Jersey (30s–40s yarn) | Summer tees, undershirts, women's draped tees, sleepwear | Airy, soft, high drape; requires careful torque control to prevent seam twisting. |
| Standard Retail | 180 – 210 GSM | Single Jersey (24s–28s yarn) | Everyday graphic tees, casual polos, henleys | The gold standard for commercial apparel brands; excellent balance of durability and comfort. |
| Heavyweight / Streetwear | 240 – 300 GSM | Heavy Jersey / Interlock (16s–20s yarn) | Boxy streetwear t-shirts, drop-shoulder tees, long sleeves | Substantial, thick, holds a boxy structural silhouette off the body without clinging. |
| Midweight Fleece / Terry | 300 – 360 GSM | 3-Thread French Terry (Loopback) | All-season pullover hoodies, crewnecks, sweatpants | Comfortable warmth, breathable loop interior, prints crisp on flat face. |
| Heavy / Luxury Fleece | 380 – 480+ GSM | Brushed 3-End Heavy Fleece | Oversized luxury streetwear hoodies, heavy cold-weather sweats | Extremely dense, plush interior, stands upright in hood and collars, premium heavy weight. |
To convert GSM to US Ounces per Square Yard: oz/yd² = GSM ÷ 33.906
Example: A 200 GSM t-shirt = 200 / 33.906 ≈ 5.9 oz/yd². A 400 GSM hoodie = 400 / 33.906 ≈ 11.8 oz/yd².
Want to touch and weigh these fabrics in person?
Never commit to a bulk production run without physically testing the drape, yarn handfeel, and GSM thickness. Request an official Oger Knits Fabric Header Swatch Box (featuring 180 GSM Jersey, 240 GSM Interlock, 320 GSM French Terry, and 450 GSM Heavy Fleece swatches with yarn count tags) delivered to your design studio via courier.
Understanding English Cotton Yarn Count (Ne)
Yarn count measures the fineness of the cotton thread used to knit the fabric. It is denoted by the number of 840-yard hanks that weigh one pound (denoting indirect numbering):
Used for heavy streetwear t-shirts (260+ GSM) and the loop yarn in thick fleece hoodies.
Used for classic midweight t-shirts (180–220 GSM) and polo shirts. Excellent strength.
Used for premium lightweight retail tees (140–160 GSM), baby clothing, and fine pique collars.
Combed vs Carded vs Compact Spinning
Carded Cotton: Cheaper, contains shorter cotton fibers; prone to pilling and coarse handfeel.
Combed Cotton: Short fibers and impurities are mechanically combed out, leaving only long staple cotton fibers aligned parallel; silky handfeel and durable.
Combed Compact Cotton: Advanced pneumatic spinning eliminates protruding fiber ends; virtually zero hairiness, superior anti-pilling, and ultra-crisp screen printing clarity.
Cotton & Fiber Blends Comparison
| Fiber Blend | Pros | Cons | Best Suited For |
|---|---|---|---|
| 100% Combed Cotton | 100% natural, hypoallergenic, maximum breathability, premium handfeel, biodegradable. | Prone to natural washing shrinkage (4–5%); slower drying than synthetics. | Premium retail t-shirts, summer tees, luxury loungewear, baby clothing. |
| 80% Cotton / 20% Polyester | Dramatically reduces shrinkage; poly core provides structural stability; fleece loops brush fluffier. | Slightly less breathable than 100% pure cotton. | Pullover hoodies, crewneck sweatshirts, gym sweatpants. |
| 95% Cotton / 5% Spandex (Elastane) | Exceptional stretch recovery; prevents necklines and cuffs from bagging out over repeated wear. | Requires lower drying temperatures; heat sensitivity. | Neck ribs, fitted tees, athletic active tops, yoga leggings. |
| 60% Cotton / 40% Modal or Tencel | Silky fluid drape, ultra-luxurious cooling touch, eco-friendly closed-loop wood pulp fiber. | Higher raw material cost; delicate washing required. | Women's fashion tees, luxury sleepwear, drapey resortwear. |
Textile Finishing & Washing Treatments
Fabric straight off the knitting machine is rough, stiff, and unstable. It must undergo specialized mechanical and chemical finishing processes:
Bio-Wash (Enzyme Polish)
Cellulase enzymes digest micro-fuzz and loose fiber hairs on the cotton surface, preventing fuzzing and pilling after home laundering.
Silicone Softener Wash
Micro-emulsion silicone softener coats each yarn fiber, imparting a buttery, silky handfeel and improving sewing needle lubricity.
Compacting (Pre-Shrinking)
Mechanical compacting on a stenter machine compresses the fabric loops lengthwise under steam pressure, locking shrinkage below 5%.
Mercerization
Fabric is treated under tension with caustic soda, which swells the cotton fibers into cylindrical shapes, giving brilliant luster and deep color yield.
Shrinkage & Spirality (Side-Seam Twisting)
Have you ever bought a t-shirt that twisted after the first wash, where the side seam ended up across your belly? That is spirality (or torque).
Causes of Spirality
Circular knitting machines rotate in one direction, inserting residual torque into the yarn loops. When washed, the internal energy releases, causing the fabric tube to twist.
Factory Prevention
Oger Knits counteracts torque by using balanced twist yarns, torque-relaxed compacting stenters, and cutting fabric only after 24 hours of tension-free relaxation in the cutting room. Maximum acceptable spirality is < 4%.