Buyer Handbook Practical knitwear manufacturing notes from Tirupur, India
Process Overview

Navigating the Knitwear Critical Path

Apparel manufacturing is a sequential chain: raw cotton spinning → circular knitting → jet dyeing → lab dips → PP sample approval → cutting → printing → sewing → finishing → export shipping. Skipping steps or rushing sample sign-offs creates costly downstream errors.

Factory Scheduling Desk

Planning a collection launch date?

Circular knitting and jet dyeing vessels operate on strict 45 to 60-day manufacturing windows. Contact Oger Knits' merchandising desk to reserve your knitting vessel and sewing line capacity for the upcoming production quarter.

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Stage 1: Technical Inquiry & Cost Estimation

Duration: 2 – 4 Days

You provide a complete tech pack, target quantities per color/size, and delivery schedule. The factory merchandiser calculates yarn consumption, knitting/dyeing waste factors, trim costs, and quotes FOB or CIF pricing.

Buyer Deliverable:

Tech pack PDF, vector artwork files (AI/EPS), Pantone TCX color codes, and estimated delivery port destination.

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Stage 2: Proto / Fit Sampling

Duration: 7 – 10 Days

The factory pattern master digitizes your measurement chart and sews a prototype sample using "available in-house fabric" (correct GSM and handfeel, but not your custom dyed color) to evaluate drape, silhouette, and proportions.

Buyer Action:

Test the physical prototype on live fit models. Record adjustments on a Fit Comment Sheet (e.g., "Lengthen sleeve by +1.5 cm; raise front neck drop by +0.5 cm").

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Stage 3: Lab Dips & Artwork Strike-Offs

Duration: 7 – 12 Days

The dyehouse testing laboratory runs miniature 5-gram fabric swatches in heated beaker dye vessels to calibrate the dye recipe matching your Pantone TCX target. The factory couriers 3 shade variations (Option A, B, C) per colorway.

Approval Protocol:

Inspect lab dips inside a calibrated light box under standard D65 daylight and retail store light (TL84 / CWF). Also approve screen print strike-off swatches for pigment coverage and handfeel.

Stage 4: Pre-Production (PP) Sample Sign-Off

The "Gold Seal" Milestone

The most critical gate in the entire production cycle. The Pre-Production (PP) sample is sewn using the actual bulk knitted and dyed fabric, complete with brand labels, trims, packaging, and final graphics.

Factory Golden Rule for Buyers
Never authorize a factory to cut bulk fabric until you have physically held, measured, and signed off on the Pre-Production sample. Keep one signed sample in your office; the factory keeps the second identical counter-sample on the sewing floor.
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Stage 5: Bulk Yarn Knitting & Soft-Flow Jet Dyeing

Duration: 14 – 20 Days

Combed compact cotton yarn is loaded onto high-gauge circular knitting machines. Rolls of greige fabric are scoured, bleached, and dyed in automated soft-flow jet dyeing machines using eco-friendly low-liquor recipes.

Finishing Route: Bio-polishing enzyme bath → hydro-extraction → stenter heat-setting & pre-shrink compacting → 24-hour tension-free fabric relaxation on tables.
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Stage 6: Spreading, Precision Cutting & Assembly

Duration: 12 – 16 Days

Fabric plies are spread and cut with precision vertical knife cutters. Cut panels are screen printed or embroidered on automatic carousels prior to sewing assembly.

Sewing Lines: 4-thread overlock joining, back neck rib taping, twin-needle coverstitch hems, pocket bartacks, and interior care label insertion.
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Stage 7: In-Line QC, Thread Trimming & Pressing

Duration: 4 – 6 Days

Every garment passes through an internal 100% quality gate: loose threads trimmed, steam pressed on vacuum ironing tables, and inspected for needle holes or spot stains.

Safety Gate: High-sensitivity conveyor belt needle detector sweeps every garment for broken sewing needle fragments before polybag packing.

Stage 8: Final AQL 2.5 Inspection & Export Dispatch

Ready for Dispatch

The shipment is packed in individual polybags, packed into 5-ply export master cartons, and placed in the quarantine bay for final inspection audit.

An independent AQL 2.5 quality inspection audit is completed. Upon clean inspection sign-off, the shipping container is sealed and moved to the seaport (Tuticorin / Chennai) or airfreight terminal.
Direct from the Manufacturer · Tirupur, India

Have a collection or custom tech pack ready to review?

When you're ready to request sampling, discuss yarn options, or cost out your production run, connect directly with our engineering and merchandising team at Oger Knits.

Tirupur Mill Desk