Garment Specifications & Tech Packs
The blueprint for zero-defect manufacturing: Points of Measure (POM), seam engineering, trims, labels, artwork, and export packaging.
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What Must Be Included in a Knitwear Tech Pack?
A Technical Package (Tech Pack) is the contract between your design studio and the manufacturing plant. It translates creative intent into clear, unambiguous factory instructions so patterns, sewing operators, and quality inspectors work from a single source of truth.
A complete, production-ready knitwear tech pack consists of five standard sheets:
Two-dimensional black-and-white vector illustrations showing front, back, and interior views with construction callouts (collar height, pocket placements, split hems).
Full graded measurement chart specifying dimensions across all sizes (XS to 3XL), measurement descriptions, and acceptable manufacturing tolerances (± cm).
Itemized list of raw materials: body fabric, collar/cuff ribbing, sewing thread type, drawcords, aglets, buttons, zippers, and interior neck taping.
Exact placement coordinates for main brand label, legal care label, hangtags, polybag printing, barcode stickers, and export master cartons.
Key Points of Measure (POM) & Manufacturing Tolerances
Unlike rigid woven denim or poplin shirts, knitted fabrics naturally stretch, relax, and respond to ambient humidity and pressing steam. For that reason, zero tolerance is impossible; every measurement must have an agreed manufacturing tolerance window.
| POM Code | Measurement Description | How to Measure on Flat Table | Industry Tolerance |
|---|---|---|---|
| POM 01 | Body Length from HPS | From High Point Shoulder (highest point where neck seam meets shoulder) straight down to bottom edge of hem. | ± 1.0 cm |
| POM 02 | Chest Width (1" Below Armhole) | Garment laid flat, measure straight across from side-seam to side-seam exactly 2.5 cm (1 inch) below armpit seam. | ± 1.0 cm |
| POM 03 | Bottom Sweep / Hem Opening | Straight across the bottom edge from side to side (relaxed, without pulling or stretching). | ± 1.0 cm |
| POM 04 | Across Shoulder | From left shoulder-sleeve seam straight across to right shoulder-sleeve seam. | ± 0.5 cm |
| POM 05 | Sleeve Length (from Shoulder) | From top shoulder seam corner down along the outer sleeve fold to the end of cuff. | ± 0.5 cm |
| POM 06 | Neck Opening (Seam to Seam) | Straight across from neck/shoulder seam junction to opposite side. | ± 0.5 cm |
| POM 07 | Neck Rib Height | Height of collar rib from attachment seam to top folded edge. | ± 0.2 cm |
| POM 08 | Armhole Depth (Straight) | From shoulder point straight down perpendicular to the base of the armpit. | ± 0.5 cm |
Knitted loops naturally contract in cold air conditioning and expand when pressed with 140°C steam irons. Demanding a "zero tolerance (±0.0 cm)" spec forces factories to quote inflated prices to offset unnecessary rejection risk. Professional international apparel brands universally adopt ±0.5 cm to ±1.0 cm standard tolerance bands.
Fit Comment Translation: Turning Design Notes into Factory Action
Vague design feedback causes repeated sample rejections. Here is how master merchandisers translate designer impressions into actionable engineering adjustments:
| What the Brand Says | What the Factory Technically Hears | What the Fit Sheet Should Specify |
|---|---|---|
| "The collar is wavy / baconing" | Collar opening rib was stretched under sewing differential feed. | “Change neckband to 1x1 rib with 5% Lycra spandex (260 GSM). Reduce overlock feed ratio to prevent stretching during neck attachment.” |
| "The tee twists sideways after washing" | Single jersey circular knit torque was not relaxed prior to cutting. | “Fabric requires stenter compaction and minimum 24-hour tension-free relaxation table rest prior to cutting. Spirality must be <3.5%.” |
| "The graphic feels like a rubber plate" | Standard high-solids plastisol ink applied with coarse stencil. | “Specify Water-Based Discharge ink (bleaches out reactive dye) or soft-hand water-base with 120T mesh count.” |
| "The hoodie hood collapses flat" | Single layer hood fabric sags under gravity without internal structure. | “Change hood construction to double-layer self-fabric with a 3-panel darted anatomical crown for upright architectural drape.” |
| "The seams popped when putting it on" | Rigid single-needle lockstitch used on an elastic stretch seam. | “Mandatory 4-thread overlock with 10–12 SPI and high-elasticity textured looper thread on all head/arm entry seams.” |
Drafting a tech pack? Get a free factory feasibility review.
Avoid expensive counter-sample rounds. Upload your draft measurement sheet, flat sketch, or reference photo to our Tirupur pattern master. We'll verify your SPI seam specs, collar rib proportions, and shrinkage allowances before you commit to bulk yarn.
Seam Engineering & Stitches Per Inch (SPI)
Knit seams must retain elasticity. If a rigid woven lockstitch (single needle standard stitch) is used across a stretchy neckline or armhole, the thread will snap as soon as the wearer pulls the garment over their head—a failure known in the trade as "popped seams."
4-Thread Overlock (Safety Stitch)
Used for all major joining seams (side seams, shoulder seams, sleeve inseams). Two needles and two loopers form an interlocking chain that stretches with the fabric while cleanly encasing raw cut edges.
Standard: 10 – 12 SPITwin-Needle Coverstitch (Bottom Hem)
Shows two parallel straight stitches on the exterior and a zig-zag looper web on the interior fold. Allows bottom hems and sleeve cuffs to stretch without snapping thread.
Standard Gauge: 1/4" (6.4mm)Flatlock / Flatseam (ISO 607)
4 needles and 6 threads join two fabric edges butt-to-butt with zero seam allowance overlap. Essential for activewear, yoga wear, and base layers to prevent skin chafing.
Chafe-Free Interior FinishShoulder-to-Shoulder Neck Taping
A strip of 100% cotton jersey or herringbone tape sewn across the inside back neck and extended over both shoulder seams. Prevents shoulder seams from stretching under garment hanger weight.
Mandatory for Premium KnitsLabels, Hardware & Trims Specifications
| Trim Component | Available Options | Factory Recommendations |
|---|---|---|
| Main Brand Label |
• Heat-Transfer (Tagless print) • High-Density Damask Woven (End-fold) • 100% Organic Cotton Twill Tape |
Tagless heat transfers are ideal for t-shirts & activewear (scratch-free). Damask woven labels with ultrasonic cut edges prevent neck irritation. |
| Care & Legal Label |
• White Satin Printed Ribbon • Black Taffeta Ribbon • Heat-transfer inside left side seam |
Must legally state: Fiber composition (e.g. 100% Cotton), Country of Origin ("Made in India"), Care Symbols (Wash, Bleach, Dry, Iron, Dry Clean), and Brand RN/Company ID. |
| Hoodie Drawcords |
• Round Tubular Knitted Cord • Flat Herringbone Woven Tape • Braided Waxed Cotton Cord |
Standard length: 110cm–120cm. Always specify metal aglet finish (matte black, antique silver, or engraved logo) and internal cord bar-tack to prevent loss in wash. |
| Eyelets & Zippers |
• Nickel-free brass metal eyelets • Embroidered thread eyelets • YKK #5 Metal / Coil / Vislon zippers |
Must be certified 100% Nickel-Free and Lead-Free to pass EU REACH and US CPSIA regulations. Metal eyelets require internal non-woven fusing reinforcement. |
Artwork & Screen Printing Specifications
Different screen printing inks behave differently on knits. Specifying the exact chemistry avoids stiff, rubbery graphics that crack after washing:
Bleaches out the cotton dye and replaces it with ink pigments. Zero handfeel ("breathable"), soft, but works only on 100% reactive dyed cotton (not polyester blends).
Printed through thick capillary film stencils, creating sharp, elevated 3D tactile letters with crisp 90-degree square edges.
Heat-activated foaming agent expands during oven curing, creating a rounded, puffy marshmallow aesthetic popular in streetwear knits.
Packaging & Export Master Carton Specs
Clean packaging protects your investment across ocean transit and ensures Amazon FBA or your 3PL warehouse accepts the shipment without penalty chargebacks:
Individual Polybag Standard
- Material: 100% Recycled LDPE (GRS certified) or compostable PLA.
- Gauge: 40 to 50 microns thickness.
- Perforated 6mm air-release hole to prevent carton ballooning.
- Printed legal multilingual suffocation warning label.
- Scannable EAN/UPC barcode sticker placed on lower right corner.
Master Export Cartons
- Heavy-duty 5-ply (or 7-ply for sea cargo) corrugated cardboard.
- Silica gel desiccants (2 x 5g packets per carton) to prevent moisture damage during ocean transit.
- Carton gross weight strictly limited to under 15 kg for warehouse occupational safety standards.
- Printed shipping marks on 2 sides: Carton #, PO #, Style, Color, Size Breakdown, Gross/Net Weight.